ozarque ([info]ozarque) wrote,
@ 2008-04-25 08:10:00
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Book UnReview; The Cornbread Gospels; note from the author...
I've had a message from Crescent Dragonwagon that she's asked me to pass along to you. As follows:


"When the cornbread is made from masa, not cornmeal --- in other words, when the ph is changed from acid to alkaline via that ancient Native American technology known as 'nixtamalization', it changes the corn's nutritional profile. It no longer blocks the absorption of niacin or lysine (the amino acid that is the protein building block which is non-nixtamalized corn's achille's heel) . Thus, it no longer causes pellagra!!! This, not just the Three Sisters, is why Native Americans never suffered from pellagra.

This is the kind of cornmeal used in tortillas and tamales and hominy/posole... When the colonists/occupiers from Europe arrived in America, they relied on corn for sustenance, but were so dismissive of First Peoples that they completely blew off the technology, with tragic consequences for the parts of America and the world, and the social classes, who came to rely on corn as a staple. This would include slaves, poor whites, poor blacks post-civil war, poor residents of many swathes of Africa, Italy, and Romania...


Plus, while I'm here, there's a video that goes with the Macaw Muffins recipe in The Cornbread Gospels. It's at YouTube, search terms 'Cornbread Flutters Ball.' The music is performed and sung by my old friend Bill Haymes, who lived in Arkansas for many years but is now in Nashville."

=====
Postscript from me: There's a Wikipedia article on nixtamalization at
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nixtamalization .


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[info]tx_cronopio
2008-04-25 01:16 pm UTC (link)
Huh. Interesting! (and I'm a lifelong cornbread baker/eater.) I'd never heard of the three sisters, either. Thank you, Wiki ;)

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[info]dcseain
2008-04-25 04:12 pm UTC (link)
Speaking of Three Sisters, a Three Sisters Soup Recipe i learned from some members of the Eastern Band Cherokees whom i know.

Edited at 2008-04-25 04:13 pm UTC

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Response to dcseain...
[info]ozarque
2008-04-25 04:20 pm UTC (link)
That's a fine recipe; thank you for posting the link.

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[info]chipmunk_planet
2008-04-25 01:45 pm UTC (link)
Very true, and just shows ignoring the wisdom others have collected can be fatal...

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[info]queenmaggie
2008-04-25 01:50 pm UTC (link)
In New England, we get taught a lot more about the pilgrims and the early colonial period, so everyone there has pretty much learned about the Three sisters as part of the Thanksgiving curricula that grade schoolers go through every year.

There was also a wonderful program on PBS or one of the science channels, (I can't remember which one)that discussed the need to adapt basic foodstuffs to be completely nutritious. It talked about the corn process, and also about the method of making of soy into tofu, and I think they also talked about the use of chestnut flour in Italy during WWII... when people switched back to regular wheat flour when it became available, they didn't realize they'd been getting a different mix of nutrients from the chestnuts, and ended up with some deficiencies.

My husband thinks the program was the television adaptation of "Guns, Germs and Steel"

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Random story
[info]phantomcranefly
2008-04-25 10:19 pm UTC (link)
The way they discovered celiac disease (what I have; it's an intolerance for gluten, a protein found in wheat and related grains) was that during World War II, the Netherlands couldn't get wheat, so they used other sources of starch, and children with digestive issues suddenly improved. When the Allies dropped emergency supplies of bread, they got worse. Kind of related to your story, anyway.

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Re: Random story
[info]conuly
2008-04-26 04:21 pm UTC (link)
Which proves that even the darkest cloud has some sort of tiny silver lining, doesn't it.

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[info]writerwench
2008-04-25 01:54 pm UTC (link)
Fascinating, that nixtamalization. Reminds me of the careful preparation of cassava, which must be grated, soaked, and soaked again before cooking to remove toxins.

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[info]crossfire_
2008-04-25 03:48 pm UTC (link)
Or olives!

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[info]indefatigable42
2008-04-25 05:57 pm UTC (link)
Or soybeans.

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[info]ziactrice
2008-04-25 02:27 pm UTC (link)
I think I'm going to have to buy this book. While I can do a fair number of recipes with corn meal, I have NO clue how to cook with masa - and it's more commonly available in bulk amounts in my local grocery store than the corn meal is.

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Response to ziactrice...
[info]ozarque
2008-04-25 04:03 pm UTC (link)
It's a very good and useful book. I don't think you'd regret buying it, and it does tell you about cooking with masa.

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[info]crossfire_
2008-04-25 04:21 pm UTC (link)
I would also recommend Diana Kennedy's books. They are a great insight into Mexican food, and definitely cover cooking with masa.

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[info]crossfire_
2008-04-25 03:48 pm UTC (link)
It's important to understand that we grow two kinds of corn for food: sweet corn, and field or "dent" corn.

Sweet corn is the corn-on-the-cob you see in the store in the vegetable section of the supermarket, or sold frozen. It has a lot of sugar in it, and has a tender endosperm (outer skin)--at least if you can get it when it is fresh and young. (And by the way, if you've never had fresh-picked sweet corn, it's worth the effort to seek out at your local farmer's market.)

Field corn is an entirely different kind of corn. It has a much higher percentage of starch than sweet corn, and has a much harder endosperm. When field corn dries, the kernels get dents in them, which is why it's sometimes called "dent corn." Field corn is dried and processed, and some 2% of the total US production of it ends up in food applications like corn chips, corn meal, corn flour, etc. The rest is either exported or used to feed livestock or to produce ethanol.

Sweet corn does not suffer from the same nutritional problems as field corn and so does not need to be nixtamalized.

I think it's important to know these things because of the recent spate of "we're running out of food!" and "we're using all our corn to make ethanol!" articles.

[edited for grammar]

Edited at 2008-04-25 03:50 pm UTC

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Response to crossfire...
[info]ozarque
2008-04-25 04:01 pm UTC (link)
I agree with you that it's important; thank you for posting the information. I'll add only that I'm very fond of "field corn," and have always preferred it to "sweet corn."

About all those articles... I remember the Toilet Paper Panic, decades ago. First there were articles everywhere saying we were facing a desperate toilet paper shortage; then everybody went rushing out to buy large supplies of toilet paper; then there really was a desperate toilet paper shortage. We have to be careful about that kind of thing.

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Re: Response to crossfire...
[info]crossfire_
2008-04-25 04:16 pm UTC (link)
I like both kinds of corn. I still remember helping my dad raise our first crop of sweet corn, and to me it's not a proper late summer until the sweet corn shows up at the farmer's market. But I can't imagine life without hot fresh toothsome corn tortillas, or tamales, or grits for breakfast or polenta for dinner. Or even simple cooked hominy, with salt and pepper. Or blackeyed peas and cornbread...or... :)

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Re: Response to crossfire...
[info]danaseilhan
2008-04-25 04:44 pm UTC (link)
It's a wonder to me that more people with the garden space to do it aren't growing their own corn. It's not hard, and flint corn is everywhere, especially in the fall.

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Re: Response to crossfire...
[info]rosalux
2008-04-25 11:11 pm UTC (link)
I see a lot of corn in our neighborhood.

It can be hard to *protect* - raccoons, squirrels, wind, hail, about anything will knock down a corn plant with heavy ears. Even dogs like sweet corn.

And it shades out everything else, which is why I mostly don't grow it. (also because every time anyone I know visits home folks in August, they bring me back a couple shopping bags of sweet corn.)

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Protecting corn
[info]maggieno
2008-04-26 07:22 pm UTC (link)
I was taught that critters were one reason that corn, squash and beans were grown together: by the time the corn was tall enough to be tempting, the squash and its huge leaves & prickly stems helped protect the corn from 4-legged gleaners. And the beans grew up the corn. I haven't tried the beans, but the squash worked for at least one season (I can well imagine that the critters would learn enough in that one season to conquer the next).

Now if I could just keep the raccoons out of my pie cherry tree. They destroyed the mamma tree by jumping from the neighbor's garage into the tree and breaking the branches. The young tree is set further out, but the critters try anyway. They're much worse than any of the feathered gleaners.

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Re: Response to crossfire...
[info]dcseain
2008-04-25 11:15 pm UTC (link)
Some of it is that corn is a grass, and needs light, and not everyone gets enough light to grow it, at least is the tree-heavy area i live in.

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Re: Response to crossfire...
[info]indefatigable42
2008-04-26 02:30 am UTC (link)
I think that sums up something I've been trying to put into words. This is an economic depression, not an actual shortage of food. The survivalist mindset of hoarding everything and guarding it with a gun will only make things worse.

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Re: Response to crossfire...
[info]leeoakfire
2008-04-26 02:29 pm UTC (link)
I grew up in corn country -- central Michigan. Back in the early 1970's my sister, a high school student, picked corn by hand for 35 cents per hour! We ate corn every day, all summer long, from early corn through late corn. I became to hate corn because I had to eat it so often. But ... I never knew that field corn was edible. *No-one* I knew ate field corn! In fact, there were standard urban legend type jokes about kids who steal corn from the field, make a fire and cook it, only to discover it was actually field corn and they can't eat it! I am intrigued by what you have written about the difference in eating between sweet and field, as this is far beyond my experience. And, I ought to know considering my childhood and being raised in the middle of corn stalks! (no, my dad was not a farmer; he was a university prof who stuck his kids out in the country)

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Re: Response to crossfire...
[info]dale_in_queens
2008-05-02 03:02 am UTC (link)
Me too! We ate field corn as corn on the cob and other ways that people usually eat sweet corn. When we grew sweet corn, we mostly sold it. To this day, I prefer field corn. Luckily, I can often get roasted field corn in some NYC neighborhoods!

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[info]dcseain
2008-04-25 04:03 pm UTC (link)
I've used Masa Harina de Maíz exclusively for many years now. I like it much better, not least due to the finer grind.

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[info]danaseilhan
2008-04-25 04:41 pm UTC (link)
Yeah, the only point of the Three Sisters AFAIK is to make it easier to grow all three at once, with minimal weeding and fertilizing. The beans would provide nitrogen for the corn and the squash, and the squash would block out sunlight for weed seedlings.

But there are ways to prepare just about all the seed foods (grain and beans) to make them more nutritious. Trouble is that with the loss of traditional knowledge and the advent of industrial foodmaking we're not aware that there is even a problem.

It's like with whole wheat. Nutritionists love whole wheat because it retains its fiber and B vitamins. Trouble is it also retains its phytic acid, which is a chelating agent. (I didn't just read this in some book or on some website, I talked to a chemistry geek--and the second I mentioned phytic acid, his eyes lit up.) The trouble with chelating agents is they attach to minerals, making them unabsorbable in the human body. There are animals that can process phytic acid into phosphorous internally, but we are not one of them.

However, as it turns out, using the wild-caught sourdough method to bake bread gets rid of most of the phytic acid in whole wheat. So you get the fiber benefit and the vitamins and minerals without sucking minerals out of your body.

But... Most people don't know that, and fewer still know the difference between wild-caught sourdough and industrial sourdough, which doesn't have the same benefit. (It's like the difference between industrial yogurt and proper homemade--the little lactobacteria beasties don't do as much fermenting or for as long.) So... I wonder if there is a connection between the fact we've been eating more whole grain in the last thirty years and the fact of skyrocketing diabetes rates, because not only is eating too much sugar bad for you, but not getting enough essential minerals in your diet wears away at your body's capacity to deal with all that extra sugar. If you look at what nutritionists are (grudgingly) recommending for diabetics now, higher doses of certain minerals tops the list. Isn't that interesting?

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Thoughts
[info]ysabetwordsmith
2008-04-25 05:13 pm UTC (link)
The chelating effect is actually well worth knowing, if one happens to be in need of such things. It's possible to wind up with too much mineral content in the body, and allopathic chelating processes tend to be nasty. If the problem is not desperate, whole wheat could be very useful. I suspect it could also be useful for prevention in situations where an overload was predictable -- say, if the local water supply is heavily mineralized.

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[info]jehannamama
2008-04-25 05:25 pm UTC (link)
There's a cook out here that uses the waste from the grapes in the vineyards to make her sourdough starter. Apparently the algae bloom on grapes makes the best kind, and supposedly is part of some original sourdough starters way back when. It certainly does taste wonderful!

I am GF due to a wheat intolerance. I always have had a problem digesting wheat, but sourdough never bothered me quite as much. Now I wonder if this is why.

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[info]conuly
2008-04-26 04:23 pm UTC (link)
Wow, thanks.

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[info]bluemetalpig
2008-04-25 06:39 pm UTC (link)
There is an error in your interpretation.

The absorbtion of niacin/lysene is never blocked. Rather, it is deficient. There is a big difference, because eating unprocessed corn itself won't cause pellagra.

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[info]aberrant1
2008-04-25 09:35 pm UTC (link)
Can you just substitute masa for regular cornmeal?

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Response to aberrant1...
[info]ozarque
2008-04-26 12:23 pm UTC (link)
No. There are things that are made with masa -- tortillas, for example -- and things that are made with cornmeal.

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Re: Response to aberrant1...
[info]aberrant1
2008-04-26 12:49 pm UTC (link)
Oh, okay.

Masa is easily obtained around here, so I might have to learn some uses for it. Arepas look like a tasty way to start.

ETA: Or... no, actually, I think the pre-cooked cornmeal used in arepas is not masa but yet another different thing.

Edited at 2008-04-26 12:57 pm UTC

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