ozarque ([info]ozarque) wrote,
@ 2008-04-20 09:07:00
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Book UnReview; The Cornbread Gospels...
When I was a child, there were years when we were poor. Really poor, poor enough that putting food on the table was a challenge. I will never forget the winter when what we ate for dinner, night after night after night, was bowls of navy beans. We had those because a truck driver my lawyer father had done some work for was paying his bill by dropping off a sack of navy beans at our house every week.

But there was a silver lining even in that cloud, because another thing we ate that winter was corn pone. We had corn pone with the navy beans at night, and we had corn pone for breakfast in the morning, and that was wonderful. [Corn Pone: Stir together one cup of milk, one beaten egg, one cup of cornmeal, and one teaspoon of salt; drop the batter by spoonfuls in a hot greased skillet, let it cook on one side, flip it over and cook it on the other side; serve. If you don't have milk and you don't have an egg, you can make it with cornmeal and salt and a cup of water, but it's better with the milk and the egg. And the cornmeal doesn't have to be stone- ground, although if your Fairy Godmother has gifted you with some, that's lovely; plain old standard store cornmeal will do just fine.]

Which brings me, meanderingly, to the book I want to tell you about: The Cornbread Gospels, by Crescent Dragonwagon; NY: Workman Publishing 2007; ISBN-13: 978-0-7611-1916-6. It's only $14.95, for 379 pages and more than 200 recipes, and I recommend it with all my heart. The chapter titles go like this: "Introduction: The Gospel Truth About Cornbread; Southern Cornbreads; Northern Cornbreads; Southwestern Cornbreads; Global Cornbreads; Babycakes; Yeasted Cornbreads; Soulful Spoonbreads; Both Sides Now: Pancakes and Other Griddled Cornbreads; Crisped Cornbreads; Deja Food [all about good things you can do with leftover cornbread]; Great Go-Withs; Sweet Somethings; Pantry [which tells you what all the ingredients in the recipes are and where you can get them]; Index." Lots and lots of great recipes; lots and lots of Cornbread Lore. It's a splendid book. [And one of the highlights of my recent Arkansas Literary Festival weekend was the chance I had, at the author's party on Friday night, to talk with Crescent about the writing of that splendid book and what's gone on with it since it came out.]

Here's the opening warble from pages 1 and 2:


=======
What if, in a world where news is too often bad, where the future, never certain, seems especially tenuous and fraught at the present moment, there were a happiness-giving magic word that automatically brought forth love, enthusiasm, recognition, and pleasure?
There is such a word. Cornbread.
"Cornbread? I love cornbread!"
I discovered cornbread's true power about six years ago, when, in response to being asked "And what are you working on now?" I'd say, "I'm writing a book about cornbread." Instantly, almost invariably, I'd get a response nearly shocking in its suddenness, conspiratorial delight, and universality. ... That ability to call forth joy, and memory? That's cornbread's mojo.
======


I worry, right now, about how people working minimum wage jobs who have children to feed and cars to fuel can possibly manage to put food on their tables. [Food prices in our area are skyrocketing; every day now, they're higher than they were the day before; often they're much higher than they were the day before.] I worry that maybe they don't know how to make corn pone. I worry that maybe they never had a chance to learn real poverty cooking.

I know for sure that they can't afford to buy a copy of The Cornbread Gospels. But people who can afford to buy a copy should do that and share it around, and should ask their public libraries to do that too.


Full Disclosure:
Crescent tells us in the book that the cornmeal you use absolutely has to be stone-ground, and she makes a good case for that proposition. She absolutely does know what she's talking about when she says that; I agree with her that stone-ground cornmeal is better than the other kind. But people working minimum wage jobs who have children to feed and cars to fuel and can't afford stone-ground will discover that using the other kind is not going to hurt anything. The recipes in The Cornbread Gospels, made with the other kind of cornmeal, are still going to be Very Good Food.


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[info]kyuuketsukirui
2008-04-20 02:13 pm UTC (link)
Damn it. Now I want cornbread! :D What I have in the cupboard is storebrand 4/$1 cheapo mix, but it's still delicious, and I think it's what I'll be having for breakfast.

(Here via friendsfriends, btw.)

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Response to kyuuketsukirui...
[info]ozarque
2008-04-21 12:28 pm UTC (link)
Welcome, and thank you for your comment.

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(no subject) - [info]idiotgrrl, 2008-04-22 02:41 pm UTC (Expand)
(no subject) - [info]kyuuketsukirui, 2008-04-22 02:46 pm UTC (Expand)
(no subject) - [info]idiotgrrl, 2008-04-22 02:53 pm UTC (Expand)

[info]cbpotts
2008-04-20 02:29 pm UTC (link)
I worry that maybe they never had a chance to learn real poverty cooking.

I'm afraid it's worse than that: many have never learned cooking, period, so the concept of putting food on the table themselves is foreign and terrifying.

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[info]haikujaguar
2008-04-20 03:28 pm UTC (link)
So true.

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(no subject) - [info]feonixrift, 2008-04-20 04:14 pm UTC (Expand)
(no subject) - [info]rozasharn, 2008-04-20 05:31 pm UTC (Expand)
(no subject) - [info]feonixrift, 2008-04-20 07:01 pm UTC (Expand)
(no subject) - [info]dsgood, 2008-04-21 12:35 am UTC (Expand)
(no subject) - [info]voidampersand, 2008-04-20 05:31 pm UTC (Expand)
(no subject) - [info]feonixrift, 2008-04-20 07:02 pm UTC (Expand)
(no subject) - [info]maryread, 2008-04-20 08:17 pm UTC (Expand)
(no subject) - [info]dichroic, 2008-04-22 06:33 pm UTC (Expand)
(no subject) - [info]cbpotts, 2008-04-20 05:51 pm UTC (Expand)
(no subject) - [info]feonixrift, 2008-04-20 07:02 pm UTC (Expand)
(no subject) - [info]ashnistrike, 2008-04-20 06:28 pm UTC (Expand)
(no subject) - [info]feonixrift, 2008-04-20 07:02 pm UTC (Expand)
(no subject) - [info]la_vita_nuova, 2008-04-20 08:09 pm UTC (Expand)
(no subject) - [info]mmegaera, 2008-04-21 02:37 am UTC (Expand)
(no subject) - [info]la_vita_nuova, 2008-04-21 03:06 am UTC (Expand)
I'll second Brown's show - [info]maggieno, 2008-04-21 07:01 am UTC (Expand)
(no subject) - [info]feonixrift, 2008-04-22 02:23 pm UTC (Expand)
(no subject) - [info]markw, 2008-04-20 10:10 pm UTC (Expand)
(no subject) - [info]feonixrift, 2008-04-20 11:21 pm UTC (Expand)
(no subject) - [info]gipsieee, 2008-04-22 02:15 pm UTC (Expand)
(no subject) - [info]feonixrift, 2008-04-22 02:22 pm UTC (Expand)

[info]tapestry01
2008-04-20 02:41 pm UTC (link)
Corn pones are one of my most delicious memories of childhood.

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[info]aberrant1
2008-04-20 02:51 pm UTC (link)
This inspires me, a lazy and barely-competent cook, to go make some corn pone. We get free tupelo honey around here, and I'm thinking the combination would be delicious.

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Thoughts
[info]ysabetwordsmith
2008-04-20 03:03 pm UTC (link)
Thanks for the book reference. We have a cornbread recipe (out of Sylvia's Soul Food Cookbook) that we're thrilled with, but it sounds like there are lots of other things in this cookbook to be worth checking.

Here's a thought for people who aren't yet desperately broke, who want to do something practical for those who are: Buy a copy of The Cornbread Gospels or whatever other bargain-cooking book you love. Put a BookCrossing label in it:
http://www.bookcrossing.com
Take a couple items of food to a food pantry, and while you're there, stash the book somewhere to be discovered by someone else.

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Re: Thoughts - Amen!
[info]infobits
2008-04-20 03:09 pm UTC (link)
And perhaps donate a copy to your local library(ies).

For the more talented who DO know how to cook and have a kitchen and supplies with which to do it ... your local shelter might welcome some home cooked cornbread to serve their clients.

I tend to prefer the slightly sweet versions, like what is served at Boston Market.

BJ

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[info]dagoski
2008-04-20 03:25 pm UTC (link)
That sounds like a fun book. I've had corn pone though I know my older relations knew it intimately. They'd never cook it for their grandson or nephew because he was growing up into a better time.

I've noticed the increase in price most often in fresh vegetables. The local crack down on illegal immigrants has scared even the legal farm workers away. Consequently more than a few local farmers are shifting away from vegetables to crops that can be harvested mechanically. There's getting to be a real fear of foreign workers here in Pennsylvania. Last summer, there were a lot of signs up around Philadelphia that were telling undocumented workers to go home. Unfortunately, most of the signs were badly misspelled indicating that the nativists were not fluent or literate in their mother tongue.

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[info]mehitabelmmoss
2008-04-20 03:39 pm UTC (link)
When I was growing up, cornmeal mush was a staple in our breakfast menus. I used to love it laced with milk and brown sugar. In college I discovered southern grits, which were white and saltier but could still approximate. But AI totally got out of the habit until recently.
I got stone ground corn meal and the porridge cycle in my rice-cooker makes a great mush, chewy and smooth. I guess you can still get Quaker Oats that cooks faster but I have a new staple again. Steel cut oatmeal is great too. And with a 40 minute cooking time that gets very messy and hard for the easily-distracted to cook - a programable rice-cooker is the best appliance I've ever bought next to my electric tea kettle.

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[info]fjm
2008-04-20 04:07 pm UTC (link)
I;ve just ordered the book. I'm gluten free and too many of the commercial corn breads have wheat. Can't get stoneground cornmeal in the UK tho'.

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easily adapted
[info]maggieno
2008-04-21 07:05 am UTC (link)
I'm GF also and have had great success with substituting the basic GF baking mixes for any flour requirements in cornbread recipes. My favorite recipes use just cornmeal, though. A favorite is a combination of yellow cornmeal and blue cornmeal with a short handful of coarse polenta tossed in (adds a bit of crunch). The blue cornmeal makes for an odd color, but it add a softness that is nice and I find it easier on the digestive system than pure yellow cornmeal.

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Re: easily adapted - [info]fjm, 2008-04-21 08:08 am UTC (Expand)

[info]wetdryvac
2008-04-20 04:20 pm UTC (link)
I've lived and worked with people who two years ago didn't know about poverty cooking, and couldn't make ends meet. My process with them was:

1) Stop eating out, even if you're hungry on the road.
2) 50 pound bags of staples (stored clean, cool, and dry) are the best things ever.
3) Liquidation centers often have stuff people don't understand - good, even great food for cents a can/bag.
4) To get balanced food, learn about complete protein mixing (lentils, rice, beans, dairy, etc.)
5) Buy nothing that doesn't keep roof over head, wheels on car, and food in belly.
6) Learn inexpensive luxuries that last - butter, oil, sugar, salt, and spices where available.
7) Throw no food away. (Food left on plate gets eaten in the morning)

...which leads me to, "Oh, I've never really cooked with corn meal, and that sounds positively inexpensively delightful!" I'm in an area where a steel mill closed 15 years back, and half the houses are vacant - people who are poor beyond words scraping by surround me. This sort of information is perfect for sharing with neighbors and people I happen to meet - my thanks for sharing corn meal / corn pone / corn bread. I'd forgotten the first and last, and never knew what corn pone was.

*grins*

So now I'm living with folks who understand budgeting and cooking and saving - and this will help tremendously should we ever run out of money.

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Note about corn-heavy diets and pellagra
[info]sapience
2008-04-20 06:42 pm UTC (link)
Those interested in switching to corn as a primary food source, however, need to be informed about pellagra (a niacin and protein deficiency), particularly if they are not consuming much animal protein. There was a pellagra epidemic in the South in the early 20th century, but I'm not sure if the lessons learned during that time are still common knowledge.

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Re: Note about corn-heavy diets and pellagra... response to sapience... - [info]ozarque, 2008-04-20 08:57 pm UTC (Expand)
Re: Note about corn-heavy diets and pellagra... response to sapience... - [info]idiotgrrl, 2008-04-20 10:52 pm UTC (Expand)
Re: Note about corn-heavy diets and pellagra... response to sapience... - [info]ziactrice, 2008-04-21 12:16 pm UTC (Expand)
Re: Note about corn-heavy diets and pellagra - [info]wetdryvac, 2008-04-20 09:00 pm UTC (Expand)
Re: Note about corn-heavy diets and pellagra - [info]leora, 2008-04-20 09:09 pm UTC (Expand)

[info]quietspaces
2008-04-20 05:02 pm UTC (link)
We pretty much grew up on cornbread (and grilled cheese sandwiches and Campbell's tomato soup and produce from the backyard garden). Always have a couple packages of gluten-free cornbread mix on hand. A favorite comfort food.

The book looks good.

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(Anonymous)
2008-04-20 05:33 pm UTC (link)
(Michael Farris)

Another time to mention this series:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DuMkW35BwK8

91 year old Clara Cannucciari prepares one-dish meals from the depression (looks like urban Italian-American).

Neophytes would want to do all the chopping of vegetables first (and definitely not try dicing potatoes and onions in their hands). But the recipes are simple, tasty, clearly explained and very cheap. And after you make them a time or two you'll get ideas of how to modify them. Once you know the basic technique you can adapt them to the ingredients you have on hand (a vital skill for cooking on a budget).

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[info]magdalene1
2008-04-21 02:41 am UTC (link)
That sounds amazing, thank you for sharing Mr. Farris.

And damn, I want to make a 3-bean chili and some cast-iron skillet cornbread now.

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[info]voidampersand
2008-04-20 05:43 pm UTC (link)
As a society we should be eating more cornbread, because it is so much more sustainable than a diet that is heavy on meat. The Mayans look upon corn as a gift from the gods, and rightly so. It is wonderful how something can be so efficient at converting solar energy into nourishment, and how it can be so delicious too. My personal favorite is freshly made corn tortillas, but it's all good.

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[info]dancenerd
2008-04-21 01:11 am UTC (link)
Well, except that there are serious sustainability problems with corn too, at least as it is currently grown commercially in the U.S. It really leaches nitrogen out of the ground and needs to be grown in rotation with other crops. Shrimp fishermen in the Gulf of Mexico are currently having trouble with problems caused by run off from the heavy use of nitrogen fertilizer further up the Mississippi in corn states like Iowa.

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(no subject) - [info]voidampersand, 2008-04-21 04:40 am UTC (Expand)

(Anonymous)
2008-04-20 05:53 pm UTC (link)
During our first year of marriage, when we often had trouble making money last out the month, we ate a lot of cornmeal mush, which I learned from my mother-in-law. I still like it, though I don't think of making it very often nowadays. (The prepared polenta you can buy in the store just isn't the same.) Robert Heinlein's last novel, TO SAIL BEYOND THE SUNSET, the "autobiography" of Lazarus Long's mother, mentions the cornmeal mush sprinkled with bacon that she fed to the children during lean times in the Midwest in the early twentieth century.

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[info]owlfish
2008-04-20 06:20 pm UTC (link)
Crescent is a friend of my uncle's. I've heard stories about her food for years. This is a good incentive to buy one of her cookbooks and try some of it out, at least at a few steps removed from her back-when restaurant.

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[info]danaseilhan
2008-04-20 06:43 pm UTC (link)
I'm going to be the wet blanket here, but poverty cooking scares me. Some country cooking actually IS good for you--like, believe it or not, greens and animal fat. (Yes! That IS good for you. Some greens are healthier cooked than raw. Spinach and turnip greens included.) But corn? Rice? Beans? Not so much. People don't know how to prepare them properly even when they do know how to make cornbread.

I was interested to learn that Europe's peasants suffered a major pellagra epidemic after maize was introduced. The problem: they didn't know how to prepare maize properly. People of European non-Latino ancestry still don't. You're supposed to prepare cornmeal with lime. That releases the B vitamins.

And you can get cornmeal made that way, I learned recently. The problem is, it's expensive. There might be instructions for doing your own, but I haven't Googled for them yet.

But there are other foods associated with poverty eating that are problematic, which explains why poor people wind up in poor health even when they have enough to eat. Let's put it this way, having to rely on grains and beans as the bedrock of your diet does things to you in the long run and they are not generally good things.

But... they're a cheap source of energy. And that is precisely the trouble: we need energy sooner than we need any other nutrient, and we suffer the lack of same more immediately. It's just another way that it becomes so expensive to be poor, though--like having to ignore per-unit prices because you can only afford to buy one pound of rice now, not ten.

I don't know what I would do if I had to rely on food stamps to have something to eat, or if like so many I was earning less than twenty dollars an hour and having to commute by car and put my child in daycare. I'm already not in the best health and type 2 diabetes runs strongly in my mom's family.

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(Anonymous)
2008-04-21 03:29 am UTC (link)
many many many cultures and people have relied on grains and beans as the "bedrock" of their diets for many centuries and thrived beautifully.

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(no subject) - (Anonymous), 2008-04-21 05:36 am UTC (Expand)
(no subject) - [info]rosalux, 2008-04-21 02:17 pm UTC (Expand)

[info]ericavdg
2008-04-20 06:52 pm UTC (link)
My husband (and my daughter and I) love the cornbread made from the recipe in a 1950s Betty Crocker Cookbook. I most highly recommend those books (they reprinted one recently) as good guides to basic cooking. And the cake section has loads of recipes for excellent from-scratch delights; I've made my reputation as an excellent baker using those recipes. You can scale them up three times for large cakes and they still work fine; I've made any number of wedding cakes, including my own, from those recipes.

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[info]markw
2008-04-20 10:27 pm UTC (link)
As a teenager in the 80s I was fortunate enough to live with my MO Ozarks grandparents for a few years. They had grown up possum-trapping poor, and still ate fairly frugally.

Unfortunately I didn't learn much about cooking from them, but I did learn about frugal living, and that beans and taters can be a meal in itself. But like you I'm somewhat fearful for others of my generation and younger who have never needed to make do, and have never considered it might be necessary. Even college kids, notoriously cash strapped, buy cheaper prepackaged foods like Ramen rather than bulk staples, and I would bet 9 out of 10 of them couldn't take dry noodles and a can of chicken broth to make their own.

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[info]silversliver
2008-04-21 12:44 am UTC (link)
Thanks for pointing the book out. I actually went and made corn pone this afternoon for lunch, which was yummy but screams at me for collards, cabbage, or beans next time. And sharing.

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[info]kestrels_nest
2008-04-21 01:32 am UTC (link)
Thank you thank thank you! I've had corn pone twice in my life and loved it, but both the ladies who made it left this earth before I had the wits to ask them how it was done. And in addition to that</>, you have given me the delightful anticipation of finding out that Crescent Dragonwagon has another cookbook out. She wrote two of my current favorite cookbooks. I give the Dairy Hollow House Soup and Bread Cookbook as a wedding present every chance I get.

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[info]kestrels_nest
2008-04-21 01:36 am UTC (link)
Oops. Sorry about the goofed up italics. Unfortunately I don't know how to fix it once it's posted.

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No Cheap meats any more
[info]robin_june
2008-04-21 02:19 am UTC (link)
One of the things that won't be around to help us out during this cycle of rising food prices are certain cuts of meat that used to be cheap. Turkey drumsticks, especially frozen ones, used to be extremely inexpensive, until American meatcutters realized that poultry dark meat could be shipped overseas to Asians for a better profit than domestic retail. Oxtail bones (remember hearing of oxtail soup?) and lamb shanks used to be "economy" cuts of meat recommended by slowcooker cookbook writers and others, who would recommend braising, stewing, etc., since those cuts were otherwise very dry. These days, oxtail soupbones are no bargain; by their price, you'd expect some sort of delicacy.

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Re: No Cheap meats any more
[info]rozasharn
2008-04-21 06:23 am UTC (link)
More than that: oxtails are not safe to eat in the U.S. any more.

Tails contain spinal cord, which can carry Mad Cow Disease. Only the non-spine-and-brain parts of the animal are safe.

(Reply to this) (Parent)

Re: No Cheap meats any more - [info]leeoakfire, 2008-04-21 02:48 pm UTC (Expand)
Re: No Cheap meats any more - [info]idealforcolors, 2008-04-22 02:25 pm UTC (Expand)

[info]mmegaera
2008-04-21 02:49 am UTC (link)
There was a thread recently on the Yahoogroups group Friendly Freezer (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Friendly-Freezer/) that resulted from a young woman (working two jobs and going to grad school) wanting to know if it was possible to eat on $25 a month. It generated more suggestions for good, cheap, healthy food than you could shake a stick at, as well as many private and public sources of free/very cheap food that she could utilize.

I utilize a small chest freezer (although I used this method with my fridge-top freezer for years before I bought it -- oh, and my electric bill went up maybe $3.00 a month, if that), and my food bills have gone from almost $200 a month to less than $75, even with skyrocketing costs. Admittedly, I'm single... But I eat well. And I don't have to cook at every mealtime to eat from my own kitchen every meal.

There's more than one way to skin a cat. Not that anyone's going to skin mine [g].

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[info]eldriwolf
2008-04-21 02:54 am UTC (link)
When I was poor, another staple( to get while we Had money) was powdered milk.
---I could never *drink* the stuff, (though some folks do)---but it bakes just fine.
It keeps well, so you have that milk for the corn pone, or homemade bread, even when cash is gone at the end of the month---(we had a few pet hens, so eggs were cheap too..)

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[info]rosalux
2008-04-21 02:22 pm UTC (link)
If you live near meat producers or hunters, you can still get cheap meat, because you can pay a lot less than retail and still be giving the farmer more money than they get from the processor.

We have cut our budget by eating meat less often (I was raised on those cheap cuts and I'll tell you I'd rather eat navy beans than cow tongue or tripe.). But I have had good luck getting "off" cuts from the farmer's market meat sellers - mutton cubes and ham ends both make excellent meat & bean soups - they are as cheap as industrial-raised meat even though they're local and grass fed.

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[info]fatcook
2008-04-21 02:48 pm UTC (link)
Poverty cooking is why my mother will not eat grits in any form. Several years of eating it at every meal or as every meal, has made her loathe it.
What a lot of people don't realize, is what we call poor cooking here and now, would call eating well there and then.

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[info]amysuemom
2008-04-22 02:38 am UTC (link)
After my great success purchasing and using The 5 minute a day Artisan Bread book I picked this up today and love it, although, as it's Pesach, I have to wait until next week to actually cook from it! Thanks for letting us know!

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